Hypertufa Planting Plan

Now that you've made a hypertufa trough what do you grow in it? The answer is, just about anything that will fit. Most often you'll see alpine plants put together to look like tiny landscapes. But this is not your typical hypertufa trough design. As a matter of fact, the plants in this trough are tropicals that are often grown as houseplants.

To ensure good drainage, I put an inch of pea gravel in the bottom of the trough and then filled it with a soilless potting mix. There are drainage holes in the bottom so water won't collect. The artillery plant and palm like it on the dry side and the tradescantia doesn't mind either way. When it comes to watering, a once-a-week soaking is usually plenty. If you're unsure, poke your finger into the soil. If it's dry 1/2 inch down, it's time to water.

The plants themselves are easy to care for and do best in part shade outside or a sunny south-facing window inside.

Although the palm will grow more than 10 feet in perfect conditions, it's very slow growing. At the other end of the spectrum is the tradescantia. It's a fast-growing plant. To keep it from growing out of the trough and into your neighbor's yard, you'll need to keep it pinched back. Pinching back is easy -just snip the stem off at a leaf node when it gets too long with a pair of scissors or your fingernails. The tiny pink, green and white variegated leaves of artillery plant make it a good filler for any small container.

Even if you choose to discard the plants in fall, your tufa trough will last longer if you bring it inside and store it in your garage or basement when temperatures drop below freezing. This keeps moisture from collecting in all those tiny air pockets that give hypertufa its unusual texture. The moisture will freeze and thaw and eventually form a crack in your tufa trough. By bringing it inside in winter you'll have a trough for your plants for years to come.

Trough inside dimensions: 6 1/2 x 11 in.

Plant List

Code Plant Name Heat Zones No. to Buy A Artillery plant Pilea microphylla variegata 12 to 1 2 B Tradescantia Tradescantia zebrina pendula 12 to 1 2 C Japanese sago palm Cycas revoluta 12 to 1 1

Sources: GardenGate.com, webgardenguide.com

Terrarium - miniature worlds in a bottle

A terrarium, by definition, is a garden under glass. This technique was very popular in Victorian times, and is now gaining new popularity. You can create all kinds of different landscapes, from a woodland scene to a desert or tropical jungle. You can even add water, insects or small animals and make a vivarium.

Creating a terrarium is an interesting and educational project, for it clearly illustrates how an ecosystem works. A terrarium is a closed ecosystem - like our planet, but on a smaller scale. Inside its glass walls, many different processes occur and interact: photosynthesis, respiration, and the water cycle.

A closed environment like this helps us better understand what impact living organisms and their environments have on each other. With the help of the sun's energy and photosynthesis, plants produce their own food. The water in the terrarium is constantly recycled, passing from liquid form to gas and back again, as the moisture in the air condenses on the glass walls, returns to the soil and is absorbed by the plants' roots.

Growing plants under glass or in a terrarium is an original way of coping with the problem of the dry air in our homes, since it provides a very humid environment for plants, making it possible to grow more demanding varieties. In addition, terrariums can be very decorative and make good gifts for people with pollen allergies.

Container Terrarium The originality of a terrarium depends on the type of container you use, the plants you choose and the way you arrange them. Any glass container can serve as a terrarium, provided that it is transparent. You can recycle a large glass jar, a fish bowl or an old aquarium. Alternatively, there are some very attractive containers made of wood and glass or plastic available on the market.

Materials It doesn't take much to set up a terrarium: fine gravel or coarse sand, charcoal chips, synthetic fabric (nylon) or screen to act as a soil separator, and potting mix appropriate to the plants used. If you wish to add a decorative touch, you can cover the soil with colored stone, bark chips or ground-cover plants.

Preparation It is best to use a container with a neck wide enough so that you can reach inside with your hands. Wash and dry the container. Use a cardboard tube to gently pour in the materials, to keep the inside of the glass clean.

Since the containers used for terrariums have no drainage holes, a bottom layer of drainage material is needed to prevent water from standing in the soil. You can use fine gravel or coarse sand, in a layer 1.5 to 4 cm deep, depending on the size of your container.

Since a terrarium is a closed, damp environment, you will need to add charcoal to absorb any odors. Cover the gravel with about 1 cm of charcoal chips.

Cover the drainage material with a soil separator, e.g. a piece of synthetic fabric (nylon) or a screen trimmed so that the edges do not touch the glass walls. It will let the water drain through while preventing the potting mix from sifting down into the gravel.

Then add enough potting mix in which to root the plants. Use an appropriate mix: for example, desert plants prefer sandy soil, whereas for tropical plants it is best to add some perlite, vermiculite or peat moss.

There are certain rules of thumb to keep in mind. The base materials (drainage and potting mix) should ideally fill one-third to half the container, depending on its shape and size. The remaining space is for the plants.

Planting Arrange the plants according to their size and growth habits. If the terrarium will be viewed from only one side, place the tallest plants in back. If it is to be seen from all sides, place the tallest plants in the middle.

Be careful not to overfill your terrarium - the plants will need room to grow. Make sure you leave enough space between them. Then you can add some surface decoration: moss, bark chips, stones or sand. Finally, water gently until the soil is evenly damp, but not soaked.

Choosing plants The best plants for terrariums are small and slow-growing. Generally speaking, it is best to choose ones that complement each other in terms of their light, temperature and humidity requirements. For instance, high humidity in a sealed terrarium is well suited to ferns, mosses and insectivorous plants. Cacti and succulents, on the other hand, require a dryer environment and will flourish better in a container that is always kept open. Finally, you can control the humidity level by periodically opening and closing the lid of the terrarium to suit the plants' needs.

The following indoor plants grow well in terrariums. Combine species according to their light, temperature and humidity requirements. Be sure to choose healthy, insect-free plants, for parasites multiply quickly in the closed environment in a terrarium.

Low Light	Medium Light	Bright Ligh
North	East	South and West
Aglaonema (fo)	Adiantum (f)	Begonia (fl)
Aucuba (fo)	Anthurium (fl)	Cactusi, suculente (fo)
Chamaedorea (fo)	Asplenium (f)	Dionaea (i)
Dracaena (fo)	Caladium (fo)	Episcia (fl)
Euonymus (fo)	Cladonia (l)	Gesneria (fl)
Calathea (fo)	Gaultheria (gc)	Iresine (fo)
Philodendron (fo)	Hedera (gc)	Oxalis (fl)
Pilea (fo)	Maranta (fo)	Saintpaulia (fl)
Sansevieria (fo)	Polypodium (f)	Sarracenia (i)
Scindapsus (fo)	Sarracenia (i)	Sinningia (fl)
Spathiphyllum (fo)	Selaginella (gc)	Streptocarpus (fl)
Syngonium (fo)	Sphagnum (m)	Trifolium (fl)

Note: fo: foliage, f: fern, m: moss, l: lichen, i: insectivorous, fl: flowering, gc: ground-cover.

Maintenance Be careful not to over-water your terrarium, as this could cause the roots to rot and eventually kill the plants. Water infrequently, especially in closed containers. It is also a good idea to use distilled or filtered water for insectivorous plants, mosses and lichens, as they are highly sensitive to pollution.

Carnivorous plants like Venus's fly trap (Dionaea muscipula) and pitcher-plant (Sarracenia purpurea) are well-suited for terrarium planting but they require specific conditions and a dormancy period. It is also important to avoid collecting plants in the wild.

In a completely closed terrarium, water droplets may sometimes form on the walls after you have watered. If this happens, open the lid and allow the terrarium to dry out a bit. Fertilize once a month for healthy plant growth during the growing period, from April to September. Use a diluted organic fertilizer (7-7-7) like fish emulsion; synthetic fertilizers can cause salts to accumulate.

Remember to maintain your plants regularly as well, by removing dead leaves and branches before they start to rot. You may need to trim ground-cover plants if they become too invasive.

Finally, do not place your terrarium in full sunlight, for the sun's direct rays can burn the leaves.

How to Choose a Lawn Shape

The best shape for your lawn is determined by its use, the landscape, appearance, and your desired maintenance level.

Design for Your Needs The most important factor in determining the best shape for your lawn is the way you plan to use it. If the lawn will be for recreation and entertaining, it should have a large, open area, such as that provided by circular and rectangular shapes. Most lawn sports, such as croquet, badminton, volleyball, putting, and boccie ball, also require an open space; most need a playing area.

The landscape also plays a role in the shape of the lawn. Some of the most interesting lawn designs trace the shadow patterns of the house and trees during the growing season. Although some types of grass tolerate shade, most require at least six hours of sun a day. In boggy or rocky areas or those with shallow roots from nearby trees and shrubs, the soil and terrain can be modified to handle turf, or the lawn should be located elsewhere.

If your primary concern is appearance, the site itself will present the primary limiting factors. You might choose a geometric shape to project a strong sense of order, control, and formality. Open or free-flowing shapes are more playful, relaxed, and natural.

Considerations when estimating maintenance are the total number square feet to mow and the total number of linear feet to edge. Undulating lines increase the amount of edging and trimming that is required.

Four Basic Shapes

Circular The most formal lawn shape, a circular lawn makes a strong visual statement. Level circular lawns are well-suited to entertaining. When laying out a circular lawn, it is worth taking the time to get the circles perfect. If this style appeals to you, you might also like ovals and half circles.
Rectangular Rectangular lawns lend themselves best to recreation. A rectangular lawn can be seen in one glance. This lawn shape is more suited to a formal than a natural garden. Ease of maintenance makes rectangular shapes an attractive choice. Different mowing patterns add a creative touch.
Open The open lawn is the most relaxed shape. Gently flowing lines have a soothing effect on the eye and the mind and fit well with an informal garden. This type of lawn often results when you allow the shade patterns of trees to determine the shape of the lawn. Open-shape lawns are suitable for recreation and entertaining.
Free-Flowing Free-flowing lawns are ideal for creating pocket gardens. This free-flowing lawn provides five different garden areas. This shape has the added benefit of illusion; not allowing the eye to see all the lawn at once draws a person into the garden, adds mystery, and may make the garden appear larger. Be aware of how much edging is required with this shape.

Lawn design tips

	A Formal Approach This spectacular yard gains a measure of elegance from a well-tended panel of grass. The mostly symmetrical design lends a sense of formality that is in keeping with the traditionally styled house. Stone edging and paths set the lawn off in sharp relief and make mowing a snap.
	Patio Extender Patios and decks are great for entertaining, but aren't always large enough to host a crowd. Here, a patch of level lawn expands the outdoor living area created by a ground-level patio. This principle would also work with a low deck that allows easy access to the lawn.
	Lawn as Pathway A narrow aisle of grass makes a very comfortable path through a landscape. Here, the path forks at the far end to create a sense of adventure for those enjoying a tour of shrubs and flowerbeds.
	Islands in the Lawn It's no crime to break up a section of lawn with a freestanding bed. Just keep in mind a few simple principles. First, make your island bed large enough to be interesting, but not so large as to overwhelm the lawn. Second, leave enough room around the island to facilitate mowing. Finally, edge the bed to keep a distinct line between bed and lawn.
	A Beautiful Frame A panel of grass is similar to the matting around a photo. That is, the flat, textureless lawn sets off the more interesting and detailed areas adjacent to it. Here, a well-cared-for lawn sets off the plantings that ring the yard. The uniform green of the lawn also helps create contrast with the darker and lighter greens of the shrub and flower foliage.
	The Pleasure Principle 1 Although it must sometimes play a subservient role in the landscape, a beautiful lawn can also be enjoyed for itself. When planning a lawn, consider the view of from various places inside your home. Viewing an expanse of grass can help soothe the senses.
	The Pleasure Principle 2 You should also create opportunities to enjoy your lawn close-up. Position a bench in a shady spot where you can gaze out upon the grass. You'll soon discover a tapestry of subtle detail that changes with the shifting breeze and the dance of sun dapples.

Author: webgardenguide.com, after bhg.com initial source

Using Focal Points in Garden Design

The purpose of a garden focal point is to bring the garden into focus. What may start out as just a grouping of plants is given definition by a focal point. Viewers instantly know where to bring their attention.

You may have heard this referred to as directing the eye or giving the eye a place to rest. It's the same concept that we use when designing indoors. Objects of size or interest, like a fireplace, piano, armoire, painting or large screen TV, are positioned to be the first thing you notice in a room. The rest of the furniture and objects are used to balance and accent the focal point.

Do you need a focal point to have a garden? Of course not. Focal points are just design concepts that can be used as tools when creating a garden to your liking. If you choose to surround yourself with masses of individual plants, collections of plant specimens or comfortable garden chaos, it's still your garden.

If you do choose to play with creating focus, the choice of garden focal points is limitless and personal. Anything that offers interest through size, shape or color will serve as a focal point. You may have more luck if you look for objects you love and then find a place to put them, rather than hunting down the perfect piece to fill a void. Ideally, focal points should look like they have always been a part of a garden. This is not to say they need to be old, or distressed, just comfortable in their surroundings.

Placing a focal point, like garden design in general, is largely a matter of trial and error. The more you do it, the better trained your eye will become.

The garden and wet weather

Wet weather is part and parcel of gardening in the UK, but changes to the climate in recent years suggest that heavier and prolonged bouts of rainfall will become a common occurrence. There are numerous problems that wet weather can cause in the garden.

Problems Waterlogged soil When soil is waterlogged, plants literally drown. Water fills all the air spaces between the soil particles and this prevents oxygen from reaching the roots. In turn, this causes the soil to stagnate and prevents root growth. Symptoms: - plants may look like they need water because symptoms include yellowing leaves that wither and drop off. Wilting of the plant may also occur - the surface of the soil is soaking wet with puddles on it - when lifted, the plant roots are black, soft and soggy, and the soil smells of rotten eggs - plant growth is stunted or plants fail to sprout and shoots die back

Soil compaction After prolonged rainfall, soil becomes waterlogged. And if walked on or driven over, the soil becomes compacted and drainage gets worse. Symptoms: - water fails to drain away and puddles appear on the soil's surface - soil turns to mud easily - boggy lawns

Disease Waterlogging and compaction can create ideal conditions for diseases such as phytopthora and other fungal attacks. For example, box is prone to box blight in poorly-drained sites.

Problem solving - do not walk on wet soil because this aggravates compaction - dig up waterlogged plants in pots, remove damaged parts of roots and replant in fresh, free-draining compost - remove any dead or dying shoots - spike lawns with a motorised spiker and add lime-free sand to improve drainage

Prevent problems - apply mulch over the root area - feed during the growing season to encourage new root growth - water regularly in dry spells because plants are more prone to drought stress after prolonged periods of waterlogging - in clay soil, use plenty of organic matter and horticultural grit before planting to improve soil structure and drainage - gently break down the sides of planting holes with a fork - with free-draining soil, add organic matter to bulk up the soil and add nutrients, which would be washed away in heavy rains - build raised beds and fill with well-drained topsoil - install a drainage system or soakaway. Dig ditches filled with gravel to drain water away from the garden or talk to a builder about a pipe drainage system if the problem is more extreme - put crocks in the bottom of pots and place them on feet to aid drainage - do not overwater pot plants

Make the most of it If poor drainage, flooding and waterlogging are persistent problems, it could be worth rethinking your planting scheme. Choose shrubs, trees and perennials that thrive in wet soil.

Trees and shrubs that do well in moist conditions include salix, cornus, betula, sambucus, liquidambar, ash and amelanchier.

Create a bog garden, which is good also for attracting wildlife. Plant irises, carex, gunnera, primulas, hostas, rheum and rodgersia.

If you are planning to lay a lawn, ensure the ground is not compacted and dig in plenty of organic matter, grit and sand before laying turf or sowing seeds.

Garden paths

Create a memorable walkway for your yard.

	1. A patchwork stone path is the perfect complement to the precise lines of this Craftsman-style house. Including subtle curves in the path ensures that visitors encounter a few little surprises as they wend their way to the door.
	2. Large, rectangular pavers are set into river rock, concealing a French drain. (A French drain is a shallow trench that collects surface water and directs it away from, say, a foundation. The trench is usually has loose materials and/or a drainage pipe at the bottom to allow easy flow of water).
	3. Adding a few smooth rocks to a flagstone path helps create a more natural look. The change in material also creates visual interest.
	4. Flagstones help ease the trudge though a garden. The large stones make for a more sure-footed journey, and leave large soil pockets that host blooming ground covers.
	5. A simple birdbath punctuates a curve in this stone path.
	6. Rectangles of aggreate rock cut into sod lead to a tree-sheltered seating area. The tranquil destination is made even more restful by the presence of a small fountain.
	7. Ground-hugging plants soften the sharp edges of the stone pavers in this garden. Chartreuse-colored thyme between the stones contrasts with the blues of fescue and lavender spilling from the edge of the walkways.
	8. This homeowner puts her rock-collecting hobby to good use in this serpentine garden path. Flatter stones, set on edge, help corral the rocks on each side of the walkway.

Using color in the garden

Too often we buy plants on impulse, often ending up with a garden which is alive in spring and dull the rest of the year. A little thoughtful planning, however, can result in a garden which is alive with colour, with flowers all year round, and an ever changing array of colourful foliage and fruits.

Skillful use of colour in the garden can create some interesting effects. The first step to consider when planning a garden based on colour, is the effect that colours create: - Warm colours (ie. Reds, yellows and oranges) are very dramatic but can be overpowering if not used with care. Cool colours (ie. whites, pastels, blues, greens) are more subtle but may need a stronger background to be really effective. - Massed colours (ie. planting in drifts) are generally more effective than individual spots of colour dotted around the garden. - Opposite colours can be used to create contrasts in the garden, for example, plantings of yellow and blue flowering annuals, or red and white azaleas. - In soft, dull light, cool colours will tend to fade into the background. Similarly, bright, strong light can tend to bleach paler shades away. Warmer colours will do much to liven the garden.

Colour can be used to create: - A particular theme or mood. Theme gardens based on a particular colour or combination of colours are currently very popular. One of the most effective colour themes is the combination of white flowers against a background of silver and dark green foliage. The overall effect is cool and harmonious. For a more dramatic or 'tropical' feel, try combining shades of yellow, orange and red. - A sense of depth or distance. Warm colours tend to draw the eye. Placing them towards the front of the bed, will make the garden appear shorter. Cool colours recede. If they are placed in the foreground, the bed will appear to be deeper or longer than it really is. A feeling of distance can also be created by repeating drifts of warms colours followed by cool colours throughout the garden. - Focal points. A splash of vivid colour is always an eye-catching feature in the garden.

Guidelines: - Choose plants which have flowers for a longer period of time. For example some annuals will only flower for a few weeks, while others, such as Petunias will flower for much longer. - Avoid using too many plants which flower all year but never have a heavy crop of flowers. - Avoid using too many plants which are used as cut flowers. Gardens are often bare of flowers because they are always getting picked.

Foliage effects Foliage is all too often the forgotten part of the garden's colour scheme, and yet it can contribute to colour in the garden just as much as flower, if chosen carefully. You can get plants with a tremendous variety of leaf colours, from reds and purples, to greys and golds. In autumn, the leaves of deciduous plants change colour before they drop to the ground.

Some plants seem to change colour from one part of the day to another as the sun is reflected from the leaves in different ways. Try looking at the difference in foliage colour between afternoon and sunset. Some plants have variations in foliage colour from one time of the year to the next. For many plants the new or young foliage may be strikingly different to the adult foliage, for example, being bronze or purplish in colour.

What Affects Foliage Colour: - Temperature. Cold temperatures bring out the colour in some plants, for example, the changing colours of autumn foliage on deciduous trees. Warm temperatures bring out colour in others. - Light. Many plants have more brilliant colours in their foliage when in full sunlight, and lose their brilliance in the shade. - Growth Rate. Rapid new growth is often more colourful than slower or older growth (eg: the new reddish growth of Photinias). These colourful growth flushes can be encouraged by regular fertilising, watering and pruning.

When flowers are welcome in the vegetable garden

Vegetable beds traditionally come in rows, a timeless design intended to weed and harvest as efficiently as possible. But as suburban plots shrink, so do wide open spaces for vegetable gardens and this makes sense to look at vegetables in a different light - as ornamental plants as well as practical food producers. We plan flowerbeds to buffer a sidewalk, surround a building or line a path, because those places may be the sunniest, or best drained. So, why not locate vegetables where they will be happiest, even if it's among the bearded iris or roses?

Eggplants, for example, grow vigorously near a south-facing garden next to a blistering sidewalk. They love the heat and exposure nestled among my drought-tolerant plants. Eggplants are among the most ornamental of vegetable plants themselves, so their purple-tinged leaves and lime green veins appear exotic. Eggplants don't appreciate the lean soil and lack of water - the hallmarks of a drought-tolerant garden -, but a generous handful of compost and hand watering can make up for that shortfall. So, find what is most important to the vegetable you love and make up for what may be lacking.

Lettuces are a study in contrasts. They prefer a bit of shade in mid-summer and bolt quickly once summer arrives if left in the spring bed. But plant new romaine seedlings in a shade garden alongside columbines and Johnny-jump-ups in the heat of summer and they'll happily extend the season for you. Consider the lettuce bed for loose-leaf lettuces that are easiest when the seeds are planted in neat rows. Add beautiful head lettuces here and there among the shade perennials, and plant the head lettuces in seed trays rather than directly seeded into the garden so that you can tuck each plant wherever you choose.

Tomatoes and peppers grow well with roses, requiring similar soil, water and fertilizer. As they set fruit, ease away from water and both tomatoes and peppers develop flavor. Tomatoes may vine up a climber rose. Peppers, like eggplants, have beautiful leaves and fruit that mix well in a sea of flowers.

Even green beans, which never shine as individual plants, can be an effective border along a pathway. They offer an additional boon by adding nitrogen to the soil. Carrots, too, with their feathery-fringed leaves decorate an ornamental border in front of perennials or annuals. Carrots will need more water than beans so it's best to match carrots to your delphiniums, beans companioned with bachelor buttons, or cosmos.

For many gardeners, it pays to rethink placing vegetables in unexpected spots because it opens up the vegetable garden for plants that take up room. The sprawling winter squash or melons, both top choices for gourmet gardeners, often are deleted from the seed list simply for lack of room. These larger and more expansive vegetables may gobble up space, but are worthwhile.

Other fruits and vegetables can double as ornamentals, too. Raspberries might be great as a hedge you've been intending to plant against the garden wall. Small cherry tomato vines climb up a grapevine. Strawberries make a fine groundcover. Once you've moved the vegetables into the flowerbeds, it only makes sense to move some of the flowers, especially annuals, into the vegetable beds. Pansies enjoy the same rich, moist, semi shade characteristics that we save for spinach and lettuces. Nasturtiums, always a favorite edible flower, will sprawl happily among melons and winter squash or cucumbers. Sunflowers and corn mix well for height. Marigolds are the classic accompaniment for tomatoes. Zinnias, cosmos and calendula germinate quickly alongside your rows.

By this time, vegetables and ornamentals no longer require rigid boundaries. Just keep one thing in mind. Many vegetables need to be rotated each year so that pests and diseases don't build up in the soil and return the following year to lay waste to your eggplants or tomatoes. With this system, it's far easier to prevent disease build-up because you'll be moving the plants around. Make sure you don't continue to plant eggplants and other vegetables in the same family (tomatoes, tomatillos, potatoes, peppers). Perennial vegetables and fruits escape this requirement, so leave your strawberries and asparagus as long as you like. Experiment with your new garden approach each year and before long, you'll forget what it was like to banish all the vegetables to only one area of the garden.

1. Asteraceae: lettuces, chicories, calendulas, artichokes, celtuce, endives, marigolds, and tarragon. Flowers: violas with early lettuces, larkspur, poppies, forget-me-not, sunflowers with artichokes 2. Cucurbitaceae: melons and winter squash, cucumbers, summer squash, pumpkins. Flowers: nasturtiums with sprawling squash, morning glories on trellis with sprawling squash 3. Solanaceae: peppers, eggplants, potatoes, and tomatillos. Flowers: marigolds, zinnias 4. Beets, chard, orach, spinach with violas and pansies. 5. Lamiaceae: basil, mints, oregano, rosemary, sages, summer savory, and thyme. Flowers: lavender with oregano, rosemary, sages, thymes, cherry tomatoes with basil and mints 6. Liliaceae: onions, shallots, garlic, asparagus, chives, leeks. Flowers: ornamental alliums 7. Brassicaceae: arugula, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflower, collards, cresses, kale, kohlrabi, komatsuma, mizuna, mustards, radishes, and turnips. Flowers: ornamental kale, cool weather bloomers like pansies for broccoli, hot weather bloomers like zinnia for collards 8. Apiaceae: carrots, celeriac, celery, chervil, coriander (cilantro), dill, fennel, lovage, parsley, and parsnips. Flowers: Cosmos 9. Fabaceae: beans, cowpeas, fava beans, lima beans, peanuts, peas, runner beans, soybeans, sugar peas. Flowers: snapdragons and sweet peas 10. Fruits: grapes, strawberries, raspberries. Flowers: consider tiny spring bulbs for strawberries like snowdrops or species tulips.

Rocks can be garden assets

Many of us want to do more in the landscape than just rake leaves and water the plants. Why not take a good look around your garden and see if you can use some rocks?

Avid gardeners may have felt they had a good understanding of well-drained soil until the rain comes by the bucketfuls. People became keenly aware of water flowing in parts of the landscape, or worse yet, standing close to their home's foundation and wishing it flowed away. You can turn this problem into a garden asset with the addition of a dry creek. A dry creek bed can flow as needed. Whether you need to move water quickly away from the gutter downspout or perhaps have a winding snakelike low area across your landscape, you can create a dry creek with the addition of rocks and river pebbles.

The first consideration is to remove the unwanted vegetation from the low area. Next, it is probably a good idea to line the bottom of the creek with a weed blocking fabric. Place the small river rocks in the bottom and larger rocks along the bank. Be sure and set a few large rocks randomly in the middle as well.

Another excellent and economical use of rocks is to create outdoor rooms using flagstones. Flagstones are available in several colors, one of which is sure to complement your home. They also come in several sizes.

Those with a more luxuriant pocketbook use flagstones with mortar and create patios, driveways and sidewalks looking as though they should be pictured in a magazine. Those with a more restrained budget still can set flagstone in the soil. The biggest consideration for the floor is making sure it is level. Since all the rocks are not the same size or thickness, the depth of the hole or indentation where they will be placed will have to vary, too.

The first thought most designers have is that the rocks should be placed fairly close together. This can be a matter of taste. There is nothing wrong with a 3 to 4 inch spacing between rocks. This allows the use of plants like creeping thyme in between the rocks. Next to the wall of the house, you can create a room that may resemble a courtyard or out in the landscape, it can be surrounded by evergreens for a private sitting area.

You can create pockets for perennials; use an iron trellis on the wall and an iron bench for sitting. Look around your landscape and see if a few rocks can turn problem areas into assets, adding value to your home.

All about garden fountains

Fountains History The history of fountains is not found in the Western culture. The importance of water was needed for survival of households and livestock, not for decorative uses in the gardens. However elaborate the fountains were, one thing was important. The owners wanted their fountain to have uncomplicated mechanics and simple treatments to keep them clean. Most of the European fountains were influenced by the architecture from the ancient Greeks and Romans. This was considered a golden age of fountains in which the fountains had wonderful tiers of basins and magnificent sculptured walls. In the Medieval time period, in Europe, gardens were divided into four areas: herbs, vegetables, fruits, and flowers. The gardens of this time, especially in the monasteries, were centered around the fountains in the middle of the four different areas of the garden. The monasteries were influenced by the Persians of earlier centuries who used the fountains in their gardens to enhance meditation. In the non-Western world, the use of fountains has been in place for centuries. The Muslims were inspired by their hot and dry climate to center their gardens around the use of water fountains. These gardens had enclosed courts surrounded by water. They were enhanced with colored tiles, fountains, and pools. Japan has also been influenced by the use of fountains from some of their neighboring countries, such as China and Korea. Kyoto, Japan, which uses fountains to create the effect of peace and harmony, is famous for its gardens. In the first half of the twentieth century in America, architecture has tried to include the outside surroundings of the house to enhance the interior of the house. More and more homes, especially those with mild climates, have extended their gardens into the house and this includes the use of fountains as part of the decorating. However, there is a trend of making table top fountains for indoor use so that the home can experience the tranquility of calming water that has been used for outdoor decorating. Fountains are also becoming more popular in decorating malls, office complexes, and homes, which offers a sense of peacefulness that people can experience. Purposes of a Fountain Religious The use of fountains in monasteries and abbeys were a way for people to feel peace and be able to meditate on their life. Most were placed in the center of a courtyard where anyone could come, sit, and think about their life with God. In ancient Greece, fountains were a place where social gatherings occurred between friends, family, or acquaintances. Decor In the early centuries of Ancient Greece and Rome, fountains have been used for decoration of the outdoor courtyards and in the plush gardens in Italy. Only the wealthiest people with grand homes would have such exotic displays of water. Now, most anyone can have a fountain installed to enhance the outdoor or indoor appearance of a home. Malls, office buildings with large lobbies, and hotels are just a few places that use fountains throughout their respective businesses to entice people with calming waters. More and more homes are putting tabletop fountains to accent different rooms in a home. Outdoor fountains continue to be a growing feature used to enhance a beautifully landscaped area either in the backyard or front yard. Wherever these water features are placed they can add a relaxing oasis for anyone to enjoy. Irrigation Fountains in America were used mostly for irrigation of crops and their animals. They were not used for the beauty they provided in Europe, but for their usefulness. The fountain was a source of survival, not beauty. The owner's most important concern was for the farm. The fountains were made for their usefulness, not their display of trickling water for others to enjoy. However, if the landowner was wealthy enough to have decorative fountains, he still wanted his fountains to be easy to clean and operate. Air Quality Many people have tried ways to bring tranquility to their lives. In ancient times, the sound made by running water has been known to have healing power. The air is filled with ions that are charged either positively or negatively. Positive ions are given off by microwaves, computers, heaters, televisions, and other electrical devices. The effect of breathing in these positive ions is mental or physical exhaustion, which affects our health. It has been said the movement of water releases negative ions. The releasing of the negative ions brings peace to both the body and soul. Negative ions attract the airborne particles in the air. Water fountains pull the particles out of the air making the air people breathe purified and fresher. Ambience Ambience is important to consider when adding any water feature to an existing space whether inside or outside. That is, what type of mood or atmosphere will the water feature add to the area. It is important to look at the existing accents or surroundings the water feature will be added to. Also, take into consideration the type of lifestyle that takes place in the house. Any water feature can be used as the centerpiece of the room or garden area. Using a fountain in this way will set the tone for choices that are made using accent pieces in a room or the type of flowers or shrubbery planted in the garden. This can be helpful if the yard needs to be separated. Choosing to use a fountain that can divide the yard into two different useful areas can be beneficial, especially to those who have a large yard and need the yard to be a multipurpose area. Using a fountain in this way will set the tone for choices that are made using accent pieces in a room or the type of flowers or shrubbery planted in the garden. Table top fountains are a great choice for an indoor fountain. It is an ideal fountain for those who have a busy lifestyle because they are easy to maintain. These fountains are perfect for adding a little accent to a room that needs an improvement and if the budget is limited. These fountains can add a sense of calmness to room that will relax anyone who visits the room. Make sure to look at the material it is made in order for the room to coordinate well. For example, if an Asian decorating design were being used, a fountain made of bamboo would give the room a similar look. Decorative fountains, such as sculptural fountains, can be the center of a garden or room. A classical look, such as a concrete basin with a Greek or Roman statue, will give the area or room a more formal feel. These can be used either outside or inside the home. However, be careful when considering this type of fountain, especially if the design of the house or garden is not a formal setting. Also, this type of fountain can be big in size. If a foyer or lobby is being considered for a fountain of this type, make sure the size of the fountain does not overpower the room. Choose a size that will enhance the garden or room. Wall fountains can enhance a room or the patio area of the house. When using wall fountains, the wall must have enough support for the plumbing and the weight of the basin that is used. Choosing the right style will depend on the style of the home. Types of Fountains Indoor Fountains Indoor fountains add a unique touch to the decor of a home. Indoor fountains also add a touch of relaxation and peacefulness as the water trickles down the wall or over rocks. Indoor fountains are great accent pieces and work well with other natural accents in the house such as plants. One needs to consider the decorating scheme and the size of the fountain when choosing one for the home. There are three types of indoor fountains: table fountains, wall fountains, and larger fountains (found in large office complexes for an entryway). Indoor fountains require less maintenance than outdoor fountains. Outdoor Fountains An outdoor fountain can add a calming affect to the already natural surroundings. Consider where the fountain needs to be, such as the deck, the patio, or on the lawn. Choose a fountain that will keep the same style of the garden or home. Freestanding fountains make a focal point for a patio, flowerbed, or lawn. Statuary fountains can be placed near or in a pond or pool. Large outdoor fountains must have a firm and level foundation. If the fountain is placed in a pond or pool, a pedestal can be built out of stone or brick to keep it level. Wall Fountains Wall fountains are perfect for use in gardens or seating areas with little space or in homes or businesses. There are many ways to design a wall fountain, but most wall fountains need a large surface for support. The wall houses the pipes and carry the weight of the basin. The water may flow into a basin or through a decorative mask. These add to the visual appeal, but also hide the plumbing materials of the fountain. Wall fountains are powered by a pump submersed into water that continually circulates water from the basin through a pipe to the spout. Plumbing for wall fountains require the piping to run behind the wall. However, there are easy-to-install preformed kits for wall fountains with one cord running from the wall fountain. Tabletop Fountains Tabletop fountains are small fountains that are used as a decorative piece in a room. They are designed to sit on top of a table. Most tabletop fountains use decorative rocks so the water will spill down them and into a small pool. The tabletop fountain continuously recycles the water to produce a constant flow of water. Other styles of tabletop fountains use figurines or other decorative pieces. The water can flow out through the figurine and trickle into the pond. Pond Fountains Pond fountains are easy to install if a flexible liner and submersible pump is used. When choosing the style of pond fountain consider the pond size and landscape that surrounds it. There are many style choices of pond fountains to consider, such as gentle bubblers, bell shaped sprays, geysers, or upright jet sprays. Each type needs the same basic fountain equipment: a pump, pipes, a liner, and an electrical outlet that has a ground fault circuit interrupter. Set the pond fountain on concrete blocks or bricks to raise it to the surface. Use clamps to make a seal that is watertight between the hose ends and the pump and pond fountain. Depending on the water pressure, there may be a need to have a flow control valve. Always connect electrical plugs that have a fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). A filter may be added to the fountain pump to extend the life and keep the pond fountain nozzles clean of any type of debris. Fountain Materials Fountains can be made from many different types of materials. It is important to consider whether the fountain will be placed indoors or outdoors. Some materials are better used for indoor fountains rather than outdoor fountains. The most common outdoor fountains can be made out of concrete, limestone, marble, or bronze. Any type of stone or concrete fountain used as an outdoor fountain will need special care during the cold months of winter. Winterizing concrete or stone fountains with a sealer is important because the cold temperatures can cause the fountain to crack. Bronze is the best material to use for an outdoor fountain because it can withstand extreme temperatures. Any repairs, because of leaks, can be patched with clear silicone caulk. Wood is becoming a popular material to use to build water fountains because it is easy to cut and join together. However, the wood must be protected from the water. When using ceramic or ceramic tile, make sure there is no water leakage. If it sweats water or leaks, use a silicone caulk or concrete waterproofing solution. However, ceramic and ceramic tile allows for an unlimited range of color.

Parts of a Fountain The mechanics of any type of fountain are narrowed down to a few necessary parts: the pump, the pipes, the water basin, water, and liners. Anything else that is used is to cover the parts or add to the overall design and aesthetic appeal of the fountain. Pumps A pump is the very beginning to any and every fountain. Submersible pumps are easy, small, and reasonably priced. The pump pulls water in through a filter and pumps it out of an opening using electricity as an energy source. There are three factors to consider when looking for a submersible fountain pump. First, how high will the water spray? The higher the spray of water, the more expensive the pump because of the power needed to pump the water. For an indoor fountain the smallest pump available will work perfectly. Second, look at the length of the cord. If the cord is short, 12 inches, it will limit where the fountain can be displayed. A length of three to five feet is more versatile. Finally, look for where the water pressure switch is located. There are some cords that have the switch on the cord itself instead of the pump. If the fountain's pump is difficult or impossible to reach, having a switch on the cord would be a helpful feature. Pipes Plastic tubing is used to move the water and protect electric cables. The tubing can be found where the pumps are sold, in larger pet stores with aquarium supplies and hardware stores. The tubing is inexpensive and can be cut to any length with ease. Different widths of tubing can be used, depending on the amount of water needed to be delivered to the spout. The more narrow the tubing the higher the stream of water will be sprayed. The wider the tubing the more water delivered through the fountain. Adapter can be purchased at auto supply stores to connect two pieces of different sized tubing together. Basins A basin is the part of the fountain that will collect and store water. It is also where the fountain's pump and fountain element is placed. For an outdoor fountain, a large container or pond can be the basin. For smaller fountains, such as tabletop fountains, the basin must be large and deep enough to house the pump and plenty of water so that the pump does not run dry. The basin must also be waterproof. Large garden stores offer a wide selection of different basins and containers to use in a fountain. Many of these containers come with predrilled hole especially made for fountains. If a basin is chosen that is not waterproof, do not eliminate it as a possibility for the fountain. Find a protective liner that fits. If a proper liner cannot be found, clear plastic salad bowls and other serving dishes also make great liners. Water The final part needed to make a fountain complete is the water. Tap water, if it isn's too hard, or bottled or distilled water is the best choice to use in the fountain. Other liquids may be used, but check the pH levels need before putting them in the fountain. If the liquid is too acidic or too basic it can weaken the fountain pump's seals and ruin the pump. Liners Pond fountains need to have a liner put on the bottom before adding water. The fountain liners are usually made of black PVC material. The greater the thickness, the better endurance the liner will have. The thicker, more expensive liners have less chance of sun deterioration, tearing, and puncturing of the liner. A flexible liner will allow pond fountains to be made in any shape or size. Designing a Fountain When designing any type of fountain, the main goal is to make the fountain look as if the flow of water is completely natural. Any object that can withstand a hole being drilled into it, or won't melt away in the water can be used for a fountain. Depending on the size of the fountain being designed, a fountain pattern needs to be considered. That is, the way the water is being sprayed from the piping of the fountain. There are several different types of fountain patterns that allow the water to spring. Some of these fountain patterns are better for outdoor fountains where there is more area for the water to spring from the fountain, such as a geyser flow or a single spray. The geyser pattern is excellent for an open, breezy site and has an exciting and unplanned spray. The single spray gives a bold effect for larger fountains or pond fountains. One fountain pattern, fountain jet, is simple, low cost, and looks great in any pond fountain. If a more structured look is desired, then the bell shaped fountain pattern should be used. This pattern works well in smaller fountains either outside or inside. The overall fountain will be controlled by the power of the pump that is used. Any fountain would not be complete without some type of other decorative object accents to conceal any hardware or enhance the beauty of the fountain. Stones and rocks can be used as an accent or a concealer. Because there are many shapes and sizes, stones and rocks can be easily moved around the fountain. When choosing a rock, consider the natural formation of the rock or any crystal formations found in the rock. Also, look at the shininess or glimmer effect as the water runs over it. Marbles and other glass gems can have the same effect as rocks in a fountain. However, the marbles and glass gems are more colorful, reflective, and glimmer like real jewels. Like stones and rocks, marbles and glass gems can also conceal the pump or other piping, or can accent the finished product, especially tabletop fountains. Most any craft store or the aquarium section of a pet store will carry the marbles or glass gems. Plants and water go hand and hand. Air plants add natural greenery to any fountain. They do not require soil, so the pump will not get clogged, nor will the water fountain be clouded with pieces of floating soil. Fountain Placement Whether the desire is to make the backyard into a calming oasis or adding a fountain to enhance the inside of your house, size doesn's matter. A water fountain can accommodate any space. The secret of building a beautiful water feature is the careful planning needed before enjoying the tranquility of a trickling water fountain. When looking at placement of the fountain, there are several questions that need to be asked: 1. How much space should the fountain take? 2. Should the fountain be indoors or outdoors? 3. Where is the closest power source to plug any electrical pumps or lighting used for the fountain? 4. Where and how will the cables or cords that come from the fountain be hidden? 5. Are children and pets going to be playing around the area where the fountain is to be placed? 6. Is there easy access to the fountain to clean it out, winterize it, or make any repairs? 7. What other features are desired to put in or around the fountain (fish, plants, sidewalk, bridge, lighting)? 8. If an indoor fountain, will it be on the floor or on the table? 9. Can the floor or table tolerate any spill the fountain may make? Once the decision has been made as to where the fountain will be placed, it is a good idea to measure the area and sketch showing the possible placement and size of the fountain. Before you start making any more plans for the fountain, such as what materials need to be purchased, make a scale model of the area where the fountain is to be placed. To do this, set the measurements of the project on the ground using pegs and string. Cover the site with a tarp and leave it there for a few days to ascertain what the space will look like with the fountain in place. If the area is too much, the placement is not what is desired, or other electrical problems present themselves, then change the position, make the area smaller, or consider a different site. Maintaining the Water Fountain Basic Cleaning For outdoor fountains, the best time to clean is in the spring before the new growth begins. Use a net to skim the top layer of the water to clean off any dead leaves or sticks. Pull any dead or damaged leaves off the plants. Be careful to not injure any living animals, such as fish, snails, or frogs that are living in the mud. Winterizing To prepare concrete fountains for winter apply a concrete sealer to prevent moisture getting inside the concrete and expanding and cracking it when the water freezes. Drain the fountain's basin before a freeze to prevent ice from forming on the pump. The ice could cause the pump to crack and the seals to fail. The basin in the fountain may also crack. If possible, drain the fountain's basin by tipping it on its side. Otherwise, pump the water out. For fountain pumps, the water needs to be between 32 and 98 degrees. This will ensure proper flow. Extreme temperatures can break down the seals in the pump. Water below 32 degrees can cause the pump's motor to burn out. To store the pump, place the fountain's pump in a bucket of water in a basement or heated garage. This will keep the pump from drying out, and causing the seals to shrink. Also, make sure the cord does not dry out which could cause the cord to crack or short out. Algae Chlorine bleach added in small amounts, kills the bacteria in the fountain. One drop of bleach per pint of water should kill the bacteria which causes algae. If the bacteria is in larger amounts, it could affect the fountain's pump and pipes. If there are plants in the fountain, let the plant's roots purify the water. Wash the fountain parts every month if there are no plants. Ph Levels To test the chosen liquid for the fountain, purchase a pH test kit (usually found where pool supplies are sold. Follow the instructions on the packaging. Liquids with a pH reading between 5 and 9 are safe to use in the fountain. Adding food coloring does not change the pH level of the liquid and can be used safely. This test is easy to perform and will save person extra expense of the damages made to the fountain.

Xeriscape gardening

What Does Xeriscape Mean? Xeriscaping was a term coined back in 1970's in Denver, to mean water wise or water efficient landscaping. The term xeriscape is derived from the Greek word xeros, which means dry. Don't let that mislead you into thinking we're talking about deserts and cactus or even a drought plagued, barren landscape. Xeriscaping is a method of gardening that involves choosing plants that are appropriate to their site and creating a landscape that can be maintained with little supplemental watering.

Xeriscaping is not a style or category of garden design. It is basically some common sense guides to gardening in harmony with your site and can actually be applied to any type of garden design.

Why is Xeriscaping Important? The obvious answer is that we only have a finite amount of water and some years even less than others. By grouping plants by their water needs, using mulch and drought tolerant plants, you will be conserving on water usage.

You will also have healthier gardens and landscapes and less need to use fertilizers and pesticides. Consider that everything you do in your yard and garden will eventually effect your water source and from there, any nearby bodies of water. We hear a lot about pollution from industry and factories. These are considered ''point sources''. Homeowners and individuals are considered ''nonpoint'' sources of pollution. While you may not think the fertilizer and bug spray you use on your plants is excessive, the combined runoff from all of us ''nonpoint sources'' is considerable.

By applying these simple techniques you will be conserving water and improving local water quality - all while still having a beautiful garden.

Simple Steps to a Xeriscaped Garden or 7 Principles of Xeriscaping 1. Planning and Design - Have a Plan. Take a look at your garden's topography, exposure and soil. Don't try to fight your site. Create planting zones and group your plants by their needs. For example, groups tough, drought tolerant plants in areas exposed to full day sun, give less tolerant plants some partial shade and keep the more delicate or demanding plants for a spot near your water source.

2. Choose Appropriate Plant Material - You may choose to incorporate a few plants that will need to be coddled, but for the most part, selecting plants that thrive in your area during low water conditions will give you the best results. This often includes native plants that we so often take for granted. The choice of plants will vary by region, even within a single yard.

You may also be surprised to see how many plants are considered xeric, once they have established themselves and when properly cared for.

3. Soil Improvement - The old adage that if you take care of the soil, the soil will take care of the plants, is very true here. The key, as always, is incorporating generous amounts of organic matter. This will improve water penetration and retention in any type of soil. Rich, loose, water holding soil will encourage good root development and lessen the plant's need for supplemental water. It is best to amend your soil before planting and to regularly use organic mulch, as mentioned in Step 4.

4. Mulch - Mulching is a naturally occurring process, but as gardeners we tend to want things tidy and we rake away all the leaves and debris that coat and decay into the soil. So we have to bring in more aesthetically pleasing mulch, such as shredded bark and compost.

However it gets there, mulch adds a great deal to your garden. It moderates soil temperature, holds moisture, slows erosion and suppresses weeds that would compete with your plants for food and water. It also gradually decomposes and feeds the soil. Apply about 4 inches of mulch at the initial planting and check it each season to see if it needs to be replenished.

5. Practical and Appropriate Turf Areas - Most of us still want some areas of lawn in our landscape and many of us want way too much lawn. Think about how much water, fertilizer and gasoline it takes to keep your lawn green throughout the summer.

Where to place the lawn should be part of your initial design plan, taking into consideration what you plan to use your lawn for. If you are using grass as a ground cover, there are other options that would be less labor and water intensive.

Choose an appropriate grass seed for the lawn's exposure. Different seeds do well in different regions. Kentucky Blue grass is beautiful, but it can also be a water hog where it's not happy.

6. Efficient Watering - Not all plants need the same amount of water and those needs may change with the seasons. If you've followed the steps above, you have your plants grouped by their water needs, including your lawn, and can water only where it's needed.

Drip irrigation systems are often recommended for efficient watering. These systems allow you to control when and how much water a plant gets and to direct the water only to the plants that need it.

Base your watering schedule on the needs of the plants and not on an arbitrary schedule. All plants will require more supplemental watering for the first year or two that they are becoming established. However after they have acclimated and developed a good root system, supplemental watering should become much less frequent.

7. Appropriate Maintenance - Yes, even a xeriscape garden will require some maintenance. Watering, weeding, pruning, deadheading and sensible pest management will all factor into the quality of your garden.

A Partial List to Get Your Garden Started Many plants will continue to grow just fine in drought conditions, if they have been selected wisely and were allowed to establish themselves before being stressed by drought. No plant will survive forever without some water and different plants will thrive in different regions and conditions, but here is a list of great garden plants to get you started.

A Partial List of Drought Tolerant Plants - Achillea (Yarrow) - Alyssum - Artemisia - Asclepias (Butterfly Weed) - Beebalm - California Poppy - Campanula carpatica (Bellflower) - Campis (Trumpet vine) - Coreopsis - Cosmos - Cranesbill Geranium - Daylily - Echinacea - Euphorbia - Gaillardia - Goldenrod - Greek oregano - Heliopsis - Hosta - Iris - Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker) - Lamb's Ears - Lavender - Liatris - Nastursium - Nepeta - Penstemon - Perovskia (Russian Sage) - Portulaca - Rudbeckia - Salvia nemerosa - Sedum - Tradescantia (Spiderwort) - Veronica - Zinnia

Grasses - Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis acutiflora) - Fescue - Fountain Grass (Pennisetum) - Maiden Grass (Miscanthus) - Switch Grass (Panicum)

Shrubs - Amelanchier (Shadbush) - Aronia (Chokeberry) - Buddleia (Butterfly Bush) - Caryopteris - Cotoneaster - Hypericum (St. Johnswort) - Juniper - Potentilla - Cytisus (Scotch Broom) - Viburnum

PAEONIA OBOVATA

Seasons in the garden are measured by the month, so plants, I've decided, should pay their rent with more than a transient week or two of bloom. Not that I'm after eternal plastic flowers, mind you. Foliage and fruit have beauty, too.And Paeonia obovata var. alba does it for me, handsome from spring to fall. Sturdy coral-red shoots emerge in spring, the young leaves clasping a rounded bud.As unfolding leaves turn green, the bud unfurls to a pure white chalice, a single row of petals around a golden crown of stamens in a show that continues fromApril to May. Autumn produces another peak display as seedpods open wide, revealing lustrous metallic-blue pea-size fertile seeds elegantly set off by Chinese-red, infertile ones.The show is so beautiful that I'm betwixt and between: Do I enjoy the show or gather seeds for sowing? This herbaceous Japanese woodland peony, hardy to Zone 5, prefers light shade and a loamy soil high in organic matter that is moist but well-drained. If one is patient, propagation is quite easy from fresh seed. Sow promptly outdoors, and a wee shoot will emerge the second spring.Young plants will bloom approximately five years later. Offered occasionally by a few specialty nurseries, this easily grown, long-lived beauty is one that more than pays for its keep.

Planning your garden - what to grow and how much

Any gardener will tell you that gardening is one of the most absorbing and rewarding occupations you can undertake. Any gardener will also tell you - probably loudly and at length - that gardening requires patience, resilience, hard work, and a lot of planning. Paperwork is probably the last thing you have in mind when you think about growing your own vegetables. More likely you see yourself leaning contently on your spade as all sorts of lush, healthy plants shoot up in front of your eyes. The fact of the matter, though, is that gardening begins not with seeds and a spade but with paper and a pencil.

A successful vegetable garden begins with a well organized plan of your garden space. Drawing a plan may not sound as exciting as getting outdoors and planting things. But if you don't spend the necessary time planning what to grow in your garden and when and where to plant it, you may spend the rest of the growing season correcting the mistakes you made because you didn't have a plan. It's a lot easier to erase a bed when it's a few lines on a piece of paper than when it's an expanse of soil and plants.

Your plan should include not only the types and quantities of vegetables you're going to grow and how they'll be positioned in your garden, but also planting dates and approximate dates of harvest.

Making a plan may seem like a lot of work to get done before you even start gardening, but careful planning will help you make the best use of your time and available space and will result in bigger, higher-quality crops.

This article discusses all the questions you need to take into account when you're planning your garden - the hows, whats, whys, whens, and wherefores.

THE FIRST DECISION: WHAT TO GROW (AND HOW MUCH) The first step to planning a successful vegetable garden is to decide which vegetables to grow. This may sound fairly straightforward, but there are a lot of factors involved, and you need to answer some basic questions: What vegetables do you and your family like? Do you want to eat all your crop fresh, or store or preserve some of your harvest? Can you grow the vegetables you like successfully in your climate? How much time and energy can you put into your garden? The first factor to consider is personal preference.

What vegetables do you like to eat? The first decision to make in choosing what to grow in your vegetable garden is simple: What vegetables do you and your family like to eat? Perhaps you'd love to grow peas because you remember how wonderful they tasted fresh out of the garden in your childhood. Or maybe your family's crazy about spinach salad or broccoli casserole, or you're just plain tired of frozen vegetables.

What are you going to do with it? How do you plan to use your vegetables, and what are you going to do with the part of your crop that you don't eat as soon as it's harvested? Do you want to freeze, can, dry, store, or make preserves with some of your crop?

How much do you need? How you plan to use your vegetables directly affects how much of each vegetable you want to grow, and will influence your decision about the kind of vegetable you're going to plant - all carrots aren't alike, and there are hundreds of different tomato varieties.

Can you grow it? Not all vegetables grow satisfactorily in ail climates. Some vegetables like it hot; some refuse to grow in hot weather. Some vegetables flourish when it's cold; others just shiver and die. Certain plants go from seed to harvest in a couple of months and will grow almost anywhere in the United States - green beans and some kinds of lettuce are among these obliging vegetables. Others are very picky and need a long stretch of warm or cool weather. You have to take the plant's needs into consideration before you can make a decision on whether or not it's a practical choice for your home garden.

Do you have room for it? There are plants that are rather like large pets - they're very endearing, but you just can't live with them because they're too big. You want to grow vegetables that will give you a reasonable amount of produce in the space that you have available. Some vegetables - especially some vining crops like pumpkins - need a great deal of room and give you only low yields, so they're not a practical choice in a small home garden. And if you're growing an indoor container garden, you'll do fine with cabbages in flowerpots, but there's simply no place you're going to put a healthy watermelon vine or a Jerusalem artichoke.

Is it worth the bother? Some vegetables require very little nurturing, and you can grow them with a minimum of toil. Others require special attention and need to be babied. Celery and cauliflower, for example, have to be blanched - blanching is a process that deprives the plant (or part of the plant) of sunlight in order to whiten it and improve its flavor, color, or texture. Before choosing a crop that's going to need special handling, be sure you really want to give it that much attention. Some crops, too, are bothered a lot by insects or plant diseases - corn is one of them. If you're not willing to deal with these problems as they occur, this type of crop is going to cause you more disappointment than satisfaction.

Are you trying to save money? Another factor to consider when you're deciding what to plant the practical matter of economics - is the vegetable worth growing, or would it be cheaper to buy it? Some vegetables are readily available and inexpensive to buy, but would produce only low yields from a large space if you grew them in your garden. Corn, for instance, is inexpensive to buy when it's In season, but in your garden it needs a lot of growing space and often only gives you one harvestable ear from a whole plant. You may decide not to grow corn and settle instead for a crop like endive, which is expensive in the store but as easy as leaf lettuce to grow.

Potatoes, too, are readily available and fairly inexpensive to buy, but they're space-hungry in the garden. You might like to plant an asparagus bed instead- it requires a little initial work, but gives you a gourmet crop for years afterwards. The economy question, however, is not clearcut. The fact remains that the vegetables you pick fresh from your own garden taste a whole lot better than the ones you buy in the store, so saving money may not be your prime purpose in growing them. You may be perfectly willing to give up half your garden (or all your balcony) in order to have a couple of ears of wonderful, milky, homegrown corn come harvesttime. You may consider the delicious flavor of fresh carrots a more Important issue than the fact that store-bought ones are inexpensive. The only way you can get corn from the garden to the table in a matter of minutes is to grow your own, and the freshest possible carrots are the ones you pull out of the backyard at dinner time. These are judgments you make yourself, and they're just as important- if not more so - than whether or not a crop is easy to grow, economical in its use of space, or will save you money.

How much is enough - or too much? Your initial decision about the vegetables you'd enjoy growing and eating-and that you think you can grow successfully In the conditions you have to deal with - is the first step to planning a well-thought-out, productive vegetable garden. But this is the point where you discover that you still have very little Idea of how much of each vegetable to grow. You know you want to eat some of your crop and freeze, pickle, or preserve some. But how many seeds should you plant to enable you to achieve those ends? Again, advance planning can help you avoid getting swamped with squash or overrun by radishes - it's amazing how energetically your plants will prosper under your care and how large a plant a little seed will produce.

Planning for the yield you want Some gardeners start off in an orderly manner by planting all their vegetables in rows of the same length, but space means something different to a carrot and a cauliflower. A 10-foot row of broccoli will give you a manageable amount of produce; a 10- foot row of parsley will provide enough for you and the entire neighborhood, but it isn't a big problem because you can freeze or dry parsley and use it all year around. A 10-foot row of radishes, however, can be a big mistake - no family can eat all those radishes, and they don't store well, so you could end up with a lot of wasted radishes. Cucumbers sprawl all over the place and need a lot of room; carrots are fairly picky about soil conditions, but they do stay where you put them. So you have to estimate how productive your plants are likely to be.

Plan how to use your crop Garden space, storage space for preserved vegetables, storage space for preserving equipment, family food preferences, your own preferences, your local climate, the energy costs, time involved in preserving, and the help available (if any), are all points you need to consider when you're deciding how much of a certain vegetable you want to grow. Before you plant large amounts of a vegetable, plan what you're going to do with the vegetables you can't eat at once. Check each vegetable's storage potential - detailed information on storing and preserving Is given in Part 3- and take into account whether or not you want to go to the trouble of storing or preserving what you don't eat immediately.

Some people find canning, freezing, or drying their home crop a most pleasurable activity. Others don't have time or just don't like doing It. So counting your chickens before they're hatched is a vital part of your planning, and something to keep in mind even way back In the winter when you're spending a bleak December day studying your seed catalogs. Come summer, it will be too late.

Do you want to freeze, can, dry, pickle, or store? There's more than one way to preserve a crop. You can freeze, can, dry, or make preserves and pickles.

You can construct a cold storage area or a root cellar in the basement. You can make a storage pit in the garden. Some vegetables are very obliging. For Instance, extra green beans are no problem because you can freeze, can, dry, or pickle them. And some root vegetables are best stored in the ground for as long as possible - just go out and dig them up when you're ready to use them. If you have a big family and a lot of garden space, you may need to use several different methods to make the most of your crop. If you have only a small garden and a small family, perhaps freezing alone is all you need to consider.

Consider also the climate where you live and how much time you're able and willing to spend on preserving. At this point, as in your initial choice of which vegetables to grow, personal preferences are important. If your family hates turnips and only likes carrots raw, it's hardly going to be worthwhile to have a root cellar. If you're always on the run, it's pure fantasy to imagine yourself making preserves come fall. You may also want to investigate sharing the crop - and the work. If you live in a community of gardeners you may find it possible to get together on preserving projects, sharing crops, equipment, and labor.