Carambola

Scientific name: Averrhoa carambola L. Family: Oxalidaceae Common Names: Carambola, Starfruit. Related Species: Bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi L.). Origin: The carambola is believed to have originated in Sri Lanka and the Moluccas, but it has been cultivated in southeast Asia and Malaysia for many centuries. Adaptation: The carambola is classified as subtropical because mature trees can tolerate temperatures as low as 27 F for short periods of time with little damage. Like many other subtropicals, however, young plants are more susceptible to frost and can be killed at 32 F. Carambolas can be severely damaged by flooding or prevailing hot, dry winds. The small trees make good container plants.

Description The carambola is a slow-growing, short-trunked evergreen tree with a much-branched, bushy canopy that is broad and rounded. Mature trees seldom exceed 25-30 feet in height and 20-25 feet in spread. Trees are very unlikely to reach this size in California. In a spot to its liking carambolas make handsome ornamentals. Container grown plants are equally attractive and have the additional advantage of being movable.

Foliage: The spirally arranged, alternate leaves are 6 - 10 inches long, with 5 - 11 nearly opposite, ovate-oblong leaflets that are 1-1/2 to 3-1/2 inches in length. They are soft, medium-green, and smooth on the upper surface, faintly hairy and whitish on the underside. The leaflets are sensitive to light and more or less inclined to to fold together at night or when the tree is shaken or abruptly shocked.

Flowers: The fragrant, pink to lavender flowers are 3/8 inch in diameter, perfect, and borne in clusters in axils of leaves on young branches, or on older branches without leaves. There are several flushes of bloom throughout the year.

Fruit: Carambola fruits are ovate to ellipsoid, 2-1/2 to 5 inches (6 to 13 cm) in length, with 5 (rarely 4 or 6) prominent longitudinal ribs. Slices cut in cross-section are star shaped. The skin is thin, light to dark yellow and smooth with a waxy cuticle. The flesh is light yellow to yellow, translucent, crisp and very juicy, without fiber. The fruit has a more or less oxalic acid odor and the flavor ranges from very sour to mildly sweet. The so-called sweet types rarely have more than 4% sugar. There may be up to 12 flat, thin brown seeds 1/4 - 1/2 inch long or none at all. Seeds lose viability in a few days after removal from fruit.

Care and cultivation Location: Carambolas do best in a frost-free location. They are tolerant of wind except for those that are hot and dry. The tree needs full sun.

Soils: The carambola is not too particular as to soil, but will grow faster and bear more heavily in rich loam. It prefers a moderately acid soil (pH 5.5 - 6.5) and is sensitive to waterlogging. The plant often becomes chlorotic in alkaline soils.

Irrigation: The carambola need moisture for best performance. This means regular watering during the summer months and must be watered even in winter during dry spells.

Fertilization: In soils of low fertility young trees should receive light applications every 60 to 90 days until well established. Thereafter, they should receive one or two applications a year in deep soils or three or more applications in shallow soils where nutrients are lost by leaching. Application at the rate of 2 lbs per year for every inch of trunk diameter is suggested. Fertilizer mixtures containing 6-8% nitrogen, 2-4% available phosphoric acid, 6-8% potash and 3-4% magnesium are satisfactory. In the more fertile soils of California, this program can be reduced. The tree is prone to chlorosis in many western soils but responds to soil and foliar application of chelated iron and other micronutrients.

Frost protection: Since it is a small tree, winter protection can be fairly easily given prior to any anticipated cold spell. Carpeting, sheets and such can be spread over a frame, with light bulbs for added warmth.

Pruning: Carambolas seldom need pruning.

Pests and Diseases No serious diseases are known to be of sufficient importance to require control measures. The fruit is subject to fruit fly, fruit moths and fruit spotting bugs in those areas having these infestations.

Propagation The carambola is widely grown from seed though viability lasts only a few days. Only plump, fully developed seed should be planted. Veneer grafting during the time of most active growth gives the best results. Healthy, year-old seedlings of 3/8 - 3/4 inch diameter are best for rootstocks. Graft-wood should be taken from mature twigs on which leaves are still present and, if possible, the buds are just beginning to grow. Cleft-grafting of green budwood is also successful. Top-working of older trees has been done by bark grafting. Air-layering is less successful than grafting. The roots develop slowly, and percentage of success often is low. Trees are small and rather weak when propagated by this method.

Harvest Fruit best when ripened on the tree, but will ripen slowly if picked before fully ripe. Green or ripe fruits are easily damaged and must be handled with great care. Ripe carambolas are eaten out-of-hand, sliced and served in salads or used as a garnish. They are also cooked in puddings, tarts, stews and curries.

Cultivars Several carambola varieties are sold in California nurseries, but sufficient data on these has not been gathered, nor has adequate testing been done in California to recommend any particular cultivar for planting. There are a number of excellent carambola varieties available in Florida, including the following:

Arkin Uniform fruit, 4 - 5 inches long. Bright yellow to yellow-orange skin and flesh. Very sweet, juicy, firm flesh with few seeds. Keeps and ships well. Tree partially self-fertile. Bears December to March in California. The leading commercial cultivar.

Fwang Tung Fruit 5 - 8 inches long. Pale yellow skin and flesh. Very sweet and juicy, firm flesh with few seeds. Beautiful star shape when cut in slices.

Golden Star Originated in Homestead FL. Introduced in 1965. Large, deeply winged fruit. Skin bright golden yellow. very waxy. Flesh juicy. crisp, mildly subacid to sweet in flavor, containing no fibers. High in carbohydrates and vitamins A and C. Tree bears well and regularly without cross pollination.

Hoku Selected by the University of Hawaii. Fruit 5 - 6 inches long. Bright yellow skin and flesh. Juicy, firm flesh with a sweet rich flavor, few seeds. Attractive star shape when cut in slices.

Kaiang Fruit 4 - 5 inches long. Bright yellow skin and flesh. Sweet, juicy, firm flesh with few seeds. Beautiful star shape when cut in slices.

Maha Originated in Hawaii. Roundish fruit with light yellowish-white skin. Sweet, crunchy, white flesh with low acid content.

Sri Kembanqan (Kembangan) Originated in Thailand. Elongated pointed fruit, 5 - 6 inches long. Bright yellow-orange skin and flesh. Juicy, firm flesh with few seeds. Flavor rich and sweet; excellent dessert quality.

Wheeler Medium to large, elongated fruit. Orange skin and flesh. Mildly sweet flavor. Tree a heavy bearer.

Thayer and Newcombe Two of the better known tart varieties.

Cherimoya

Scientific name: Annona cherimola Mill. Family: Annonaceae Common Names: Cherimoya (U.S., Latin America), Custard Apple (U.K. and Commonwealth), Chirimoya, Chirimolla. Related species: Ilama (Annona diversifolia), Pond Apple (A. glabra), Manrito (A. jahnii). Mountain Soursop (A. montana), Soursop (A. muricata), Soncoya (A. purpurea), Bullock's Heart (A. reticulata), Sugar Apple (Annona squamosa), Atemoya (A. cherimola X A. squamosa). Distant affinity: Pawpaw (Asimina triloba), Biriba (Rollinia deliciosa), Wild Sweetsop (R. mucosa), Keppel Apple (Stelechocarpus burakol). Origin: The cherimoya is believed to be native to the inter-andean valleys of Ecuador, Colombia and Peru. Seeds from Mexico were planted in California (Carpinteria) in 1871.

Description The cherimoya is a fairly fairly dense, fast-growing, evergreen tree, briefly deciduous in California from February through April. The tree can reach 30 feet or more, but is fairly easily restrained. Young trees "harp," forming opposite branches as a natural espalier. These can be trained against a surface, or pruned off to form a regular free-standing trunk. Growth is in one long flush, beginning in April. The roots commence as taproot, but the slow-growing root system is rather weak, superficial, and ungreedy. Young plants need staking.

Foliage: The attractive leaves are single and alternate, 2 to 8 inches long and up to 4 inches wide. They are dark green on top and velvety green on the bottom, with prominent veins. New growth is recurved, like a fiddle-neck. Axillary buds are hidden beneath fleshy leaf petioles.

Flowers: The fragrant flowers are borne solitary or in groups of 2 or 3 on short, hairy stalks along the branches. They appear with new growth flushes, continuing as new growth proceeds and on old wood until midsummer. The flowers are made up of three fleshy, greenish-brown, oblong, downy outer petals and three smaller, pinkish inner petals. They are perfect but dichogamous, lasting approximately two days, and opening in two stages, first as female flowers for approximately 36 hours. and later as male flowers. The flower has a declining receptivity to pollen during the female stage and is unlikely to be pollinated by its own pollen in the male stage.

Fruits: The compound fruit is conical or somewhat heart-shaped, 4 to 8 inches long and up to 4 inches in width, weighing on the average 5-1/2 to 18 ounces, but the largest fruits may reach 5 pounds in weight. The skin, thin or thick, may be smooth with fingerprint-like markings or covered with conical or rounded protuberances. The sweet, juicy, white flesh is melting, subacid and very fragrant. The fruit is of a primitive form with spirally arranged carpels, resembling a raspberry. Each segment of flesh surrounds a single hard black bean-like seed. The fruit size is generally proportional to the number of seeds within. They ripen October to May.

Care and cultivation Adaptation: The cherimoya is subtropical or mild-temperate and will tolerate light frosts. Young growing tips are killed at 29 F and and mature trees are killed or severely injured at 25 F. If cherimoyas do not receive enough chilling, the trees will go dormant slowly and then experience delayed foliation. The amount of chilling needed is estimated to be between 50 and 100 hours. The tree grows well in the coastal and foothill areas of southern California, doing best at a slight elevation, 3 to 15 miles from ocean. It is worth attempting in sunny, south-facing, nearly frost-free locations from San Francisco Bay Area to Lompoc, and may survive to fruit in a very few protected Central Valley foothill locations from Chico to Arvin. Resentful of the excessive dry heat of the interior, it is not for the desert. Cherimoyas are not recommended for container culture.

Location: Cherimoyas prefer a sunny exposure, buoyant marine air and cool nights. In southern California do not plant where heat collects on barren hillside or against a wall, since the leaves and fruit may sunburn badly. In the north, do the opposite: plant against a south facing wall to collect heat and encourage early bud-break and fruit ripening. The trees need protection from constant ocean or Santa Ana winds which may damage them and interfere with pollination and fruit set.

Soil: The cherimoya performs well on a wide range of soil types from light to heavy, but seems to do best on a well-drained, medium soil of moderate fertility. The optimum pH ranges from 6.5 to 7.6.

Irrigation: Cherimoyas need plenty of moisture while they are growing actively, but should not be watered when they are dormant. The trees are susceptible to root rot in soggy soils, especially in cool weather. Commence deep watering biweekly in April. Drip irrigation is also an excellent way to supply water. It is best to avoid poor water to prevent salt build-up. Drought-stressed trees will drop their leaves, exposing the fruit to sunburn.

Fertilization: Cherimoyas should be fertilized on a regular basis. Apply a balanced fertilizer, such as 8-8-8 NPK, in midwinter, then every three months. Increase the amount of fertilizer each year until the trees begin to bear fruit. Mature trees require an annual application of 4 ounces of actual nitrogen per inch of trunk diameter. Cherimoyas also respond to organic amendments. It should be kept in mind that yellow leaves may mean that the soil too dry or the weather too cold, not always a need for fertilizer.

Pruning: Cherimoyas have rather brittle wood. Prune during the dormant period to develop strong branches that can support the heavy fruit. Train the tree to two scaffold branches at 2 feet of trunk, pruning them to a 2 foot length. Save only the strongest single shoots, preferably those at 60 to 90 degree angle, and remove the others. In the following years, remove two-thirds of the previous year's growth, leaving six or seven good buds, at time of new growth. This will keep fruiting wood within reach of the ground. Thin out crossing branches.

Frost Protection: Young trees are very frost sensitive. Wrap the trunk and scaffold with sponge foam for protection, or cover the entire tree. In cooler areas plant next to a south-facing wall or under the eaves to trap house heat.

Pollination: Since natural pollinators are not present in California, the flowers must be pollinated by hand. This is best done in mid-season of bloom, over a period of two to three months. In early evening, collect in a small bottle the anthers and pollen from the interior of fully open male flowers with a nr.2 or nr.3 artists brush. Anthers will be tan colored and the white pollen falling from them will be obvious. The pollen has its highest viability at the time it is shed and declines significantly with time. Immediately apply freshly collected pollen with a small brush to the flowers in partially open, female stage. If no female stage flowers are available, pollen may be saved in the sealed container under refrigeration overnight. Pollen may then be applied to female stage flowers in the morning. In large scale operations the pollen may be mixed with inert Lycopodium spores, PVC, starch or talc powder and applied with aspirator-type Japanese apple-pollinators, to save time and pollen. Pollinate every two or three days, and only flowers easily reached inside the tree, to avoid sunburned and wind-damaged fruit. If pollination efforts are quite successful, it may be necessary to thin the fruit. Too much fruit may result in small size and adversely effect future yields.

Propagation Since there are no recognized rootstocks for cherimoyas, seedlings are universally utilized. Seeds from the White cultivar (Dr. White) are thought by some to produce superior rootstocks, however there does not appear to be a great deal of objective data to support this position. Seeds remain viable for two to three years if kept dry and protected from weevil and fungi. With 70 F bottom heat, seed will germinate in about 21 days, but will require about 40 days under normal ambient growing conditions. Seedlings should be transplanted to deep containers (approximately 18") when they are 3" tall to promote development of the tap root. In frost-free areas, it is recommended that seedlings for spring grafting be planted in their ultimate location in the fall and grafted in the ground the following spring.

Grafting is most successful in January through May provided previous years leaves have not been shed from the potential scionwood. During this period no scion preparation is required other than removal of leaves. All normal grafting techniques appear to be equally successful. However in topworking, nurse branches are desirable if not essential for success. To bud, collect budwood in July store refrigerated for 10 days in plastic. Petioles will drop exposing dormant buds. Bud at once using chip bud technique and wrap well against dehydration. Grafted plants will bear in two to three years.

Pests and Diseases Mealybugs and snails are the main pests of cherimoyas. Keep ducks or apply copper strips to the trunks for control of snails. Mealybugs are brought by ants which can be controlled to some extent by maintaining fresh Tanglefoot on masking tape around the trunk. The masking tape is important to prevent damage to the tree. Skirt the tree to prevent ant access from the ground or weeds. No chemicals are registered for use on Cherimoyas.

Cherimoyas are susceptible to Armillaria (Oak Root Fungus) and Verticillium. Do not plant in old vegetable gardens, or near tomatoes, eggplant or asters. Crown rot can kill trees damaged by frost or growing in saturated soil, as well as from trunks hit by frequent, superficial lawn sprinkling.

Harvest The fruit turns a pale green or creamy yellow color as they reach maturity. Color change is not marked in cool weather. They should be picked when still firm and allowed to soften at room temperature. Ripe fruit will give to soft pressure. Overripe fruit will be dark brown. Fruit left on the tree too long will usually crack or split and begin to decay. The fruit should be clipped rather than pulled from the tree. Cut the stem close to the fruit so it won't puncture other fruit during storage.

Store mature fruit above 55 F to prevent chilling injury to the skin and flesh. Ripe fruit will deteriorate quickly but can be stored at temperatures lower than 55 F for short periods. Ripe cherimoyas can be frozen and eaten like ice cream. Cherimoyas are best served chilled, cut in half or quartered and eaten with a spoon. The fruit can also be juiced or used to make delicious sorbets or milkshakes.

Commercial Potential: Though unusual in appearance, cherimoyas are readily accepted by western tastes and has become a favorite tropical fruit. Demand greatly exceeds supply in all U.S. markets as most fruit never leaves California, the only producing state. The fruit commands high wholesale and retail prices, but costs are high and major crop losses from frost and fruit splitting are an ever present possibility. The major labor costs are pruning, pollination, ant control and irrigation.

Marjoram

Common names: marjoram, sweet marjoram

Botanical name: Marjorana hortensis

Origin: Mediterranean

Varieties

Few varieties are available; grow the variety available in your area.

Description

A tender branching perennial, usually grown as an annual, marjoram grows 10 to 15 inches tall. It has greyish opposite leaves and lavender or whitish flowers growing up most of the stem. Marjoram means ''joy of the mountain.'' Venus was reputed to be the first to grow this herb. Its leaves and flowering heads, steeped and made into a tea, have been said to relieve indigestion and headaches.

Where and when to grow

Marjoram will grow in most areas of the United States, but it's sensitive to frost and needs winter protection to survive the winter in very cold areas. Plant marjoram from seeds or transplants on your average date of last frost.

How to plant

Marjoram tolerates light shade and thrives in poor soil with good drainage. Don't fertilize the soil before planting; over-fertile soil will produce lots of leaves, but they'll have little flavor. One of the attractive qualities of many herbs is that they'll thrive in the kind of soil conditions that a lot of Other plants won't tolerate. Marjoram is started from seed or transplants. On your average date of last frost, sow seeds a quarter inch deep in rows 18 to 24 inches apart. Thin the seedlings about six inches apart when they're growing sturdily, or plant transplants that are two or three inches tall, and set them about six inches apart. If the weather warms up quickly, mulch transplants to protect the roots from too much heat until they're acclimated. If you're afraid marjoram won't survive the winter, dig up the plants in the fall, let them winter as houseplants, and plant again in

spring - divide the clumps before replanting.

Fertilizing and watering

Don't fertilize marjoram. Water sparingly. The less water marjoram gets, the better the flavor will be.

Special handling

About all the special attention marjoram requires is a protection of mulch to help it weather very cold winters.

Pests

Marjoram has no serious pest problems. Like most herbs, it's a good plant for organic gardens. Diseases

Marjoram has no serious disease problems.

When and how to harvest

When the first blooms appear, cut the plants back several inches; you can do this several times without harming the plant. Fresh leaves can be harvested at any time.

Storing and preserving

Dry leaves and flower tops quickly. Store the crumbled, dry leaves for winter use.

Serving suggestions

Marjoram is one of the traditional components of a bouquet garni. The leaves are good with veal and liver, in meat and egg dishes, and in poultry stuffings. Try them in soups or on roast beef sandwiches. Make herb butter with them. Add chopped marjoram leaves in melted butter to spinach just before serving.

Mint

Common name: mint

Botanical names: Mentha piperita (peppermint); Mentha spicata (spearmint).

Origin: Europe

Varieties

There are many varieties of mint, of which the best known are spearmint and peppermint. Other varieties have different flavors, like golden apple mint or orange mint. Grow the variety available in your area or the scent and flavor you like best.

Description

A number of different varieties go by the collective name of mint; peppermint and spearmint are probably the two most popular. Both are hardy perennials, and both are very prolific-once you set them in a corner of the garden they'll quietly take over. Peppermint (Mentha piperita) is a tall, shallow-rooted, fast spreading perennial with square stems and leaves that usually have a purple tinge. The light lavender flowers appear in terminal spikes and bloom through most of the growing

season. The plant grows to about three feet tall. Spearmint (M. spicata) is a perennial that grows two to 2y2 feet tall, with square stems and leaves that are slightly curled and deeply veined. The flowers are light purple to white and grow in spikes two to four inches long that start blooming in early summer and continue well into fall. You may also come across varieties like golden apple mint, which has a more delicate flavor than spearmint. This plant also has pale purple flowers, but

the leaves are dark green streaked with gold. Orange mint, sometimes known as bergamot mint, gets its name from its delicate scent of oranges. Orange mint has reddish-green leaves edged with purple; the flowers are lavender.

Where and when to grow

Both peppermint and spearmint are very hardy and can be grown almost anywhere in the United

States. Plant them from root divisions any time during the growing season.

How to plant

Mint varieties from seed will not grow ''true.'' So it's generally more satisfactory to use root divisions. An innocuous little plant of mint will wander all over the garden if it gets half a chance, so plant each one in a container that will keep the roots in one place - a two pound coffee can with both ends removed is good. Peppermint and spearmint grow well in any soil; they prefer sun but will tolerate partial shade. For spearmint, work a complete, well balanced fertilizer into the soil

before planting at the rate of a pound per 100 square feet. Don't fertilize before planting peppermint-you'll get all the peppermint you can use without it. Although you can plant mints anytime during the growing season, root divisions will be established faster if planted on a cool, moist day in spring or fall. Space plants two or three inches apart in rows 18 to 24 inches apart.

Fertilizing and watering

Don't fertilize mints in midseason; they'll never miss it. Both peppermint and spearmint prefer moist soil, so they'll require more watering than the rest of the garden. Keep them evenly moist until root divisions are established.

Pests

Mints have no serious pest problems.

Diseases

Mints are susceptible to verticillium wilt and mint rust. Prevent these diseases by removing all the dead stems and leaves from the bed before winter.

When and how to harvest

The more mint you pick, the better the plants will grow, and you can pick sprigs throughout the growing season. Harvest more fully as the plants begin to bloom, just as the lower leaves start to yellow. Cut the entire plant down two or three inches above the soil. You'll get a second smaller harvest the same season.

Storing and preserving

Strip the mint leaves from the stem and let them dry in a warm shady area. The dried leaves can be stored in a sealed jar.

Serving suggestions

A sprig of fresh mint is a pretty garnish for summer drinks - and you can't have a mint julep without it. Cook peas in a very little water to which you've added a couple of sprigs of mint. Toss boiled new potatoes with butter and chopped mint-a nice change from parsley. Instead of mint jelly with a lamb roast, try the traditional English mint sauce. Add a little sugar to a couple of tablespoons of chopped fresh mint leaves, add boiling water to bring out the flavor, then top off with vinegar to taste.

Oregano

Common names: oregano, wild marjoram

Botanical names: Origanum vulgare. Origanum heracleoticum

Origin: Mediterranean (O. vulgare), Cyprus (O. heracleoticum)

Varieties

In cold northern areas grow any variety of O. vulgare. In warmer areas grow any variety of either O. vulgare or O. heracleoticum.

Description

The name ''oregano'' is more accurately applied to a flavor than to a plant, and there are two varieties that you can grow for seasoning called oregano. O. vulgare is usually grown; it's hardier and easier to propagate than the alternative, O. heracleoticum - also known as wild marjoram. The name ''oregano'' itself has been traced back to an ancient Greek word translated as ''delight of the mountains,'' which suggests that the plants once grew wild on the hillsides of Greece. Oregano (O. vulgare) is a very hardy perennial that may grow2y2 feet tall. The leaves are reyish-green, slightly hairy, and oval in shape, and the flowers are pink, white, or purple. O. heracleoticum is a tender perennial that grows only a foot high. The leaves are very hairy and oval in shape, and the plant bears small white flower clusters on tall stems. Oregano's reputed medicinal powers are varied. A tea made from the leaves and flowers was believed to relieve indigestion, headaches, and nervousness. Oil extracted from the plant was used as a cure for toothache.

Where and when to grow

O. vulgare can be grown anywhere in the United States from root divisions or seed planted early in spring. O. heracleoticum can also be grown anywhere in the United States from seed or root divisions if planting is delayed until all danger of frost is past; it should be grown as an annual or given winter protection in colder northern areas. O. heracleoticum can also be grown in a container - it makes an attractive houseplant.

How to plant

Don't fertilize the planting bed for oregano-lack of nutrients even enhances the flavor. Both varieties need well-drained soil in a sunny location, although O. vulgare will tolerate partial shade.

Plant both varieties from root divisions or seeds and space plants about a foot apart. Plant O. vulgare on your average date of last frost, and O. heracleoticum two to three weeks later. Plant seeds a quarter inch deep in rows 12 to 18 inches apart, and thin to six to 12 inches apart. Plant divisions six to 12 inches apart in rows 12 to 18 inches apart.

Fertilizing and watering

Don't fertilize oregano at all. Keep the oregano plants on the dry side.

Pests

Oregano varieties have no serious pest problems.

Diseases

These plants have no serious disease problems.

When and how to harvest

Oregano is ready to harvest when it begins to flower; cut the stems down to a few inches above the soil. Leaves can be harvested for fresh use throughout the growing season if you cut off the flowers before they open-this encourages fuller foliage.

Storing and preserving

Hang oregano in bunches to dry; when they're dry, remove the leaves and store them in an airtight container.

Serving suggestions

Oregano is essential to lots of Italian dishes. Add it to spaghetti sauce, and sprinkle it on pizza. Try oregano and a touch of lemon on lamb chops or steak. Sprinkle oregano on cooked vegetables for a lively flavor.

Parsley

Common name: parsley

Botanical name: Petroselinum crispum

Origin: Mediterranean

Varieties

Moss Curled (70 days); Perfection (75 days); Hamburg or Parsnip-Rooted parsley (90 days).

Description

Parsley is a hardy biennial that is treated as an annual. It has finely divided, fernlike leaves that are either flat or curly. The leaves grow in a rosette from a single taproot that in some varieties is quite large and can be eaten like parsnips. Parsley has flat-topped clusters of greenish-yellow flowers, similar to those of dill, which belongs to the same family. The Romans wore parsley wreaths to keep from becoming intoxicated. Parsley is probably the best known of the herbs used for flavoring and for garnish.

Where and when to grow

Parsley will grow anywhere and can survive cold. It tolerates heat, but very hot weather will make the plant go to seed. Plant parsley two to three weeks before your average date of last frost. Parsley also does well as a houseplant; some gardeners bring parsley in from the garden in fall and let it winter in a bright window.

How to plant

Parsley likes well-worked, well drained soil with moderate organic content. Don't fertilize before planting. Plant it from seed; they take a long time to germinate, but you can speed up the process by soaking them in warm water overnight before planting. Plant the seeds a quarterinch

deep in rows 18 to 24 inches apart. Thin the seedlings to 12 to 18 inches apart when they're growing strongly. Or start seeds indoors six weeks before the average date of last frost.

Fertilizing and watering

You don't need to fertilize the soil for parsley to grow well. It's important to keep the soil moderately moist; parsley needs a regular supply of water to keep producing new leaves.

Pests

The parsley caterpillar is the only pest you're likely to have to contend with. Hand-pick it off the plants.

Diseases

Parsley has no serious disease problems.

When and how to harvest

From planting to harvest is about 70 to 90 days, and a 10-foot row of parsley will keep you -

and all your neighbors - well supplied. To encourage the growth of new foliage, cut off the flower stalk when it appears. The flower stalk shoots' up taller than the leaves, and the leaves on it are much smaller. Harvest parsley leaves any time during the growing season; cut them off at the base of the plant. The plant will retain its rich color until early winter. Many gardeners harvest the entire parsley plant in fall and dry it; you can also bring the whole plant inside for the winter.

Storing and preserving

Parsley lends itself well to freezing and drying. Store the dried leaves in an airtight container.

Serving suggestions

Parsley's reputation as a garnish often does it a disservice-it gets left on the side of the plate. In

fact it's been known for thousands of years for its excellent flavor and versatility. Add chopped parsley to buttered potatoes and vegetables; toss a little on a sliced tomato salad along with a pinch of basil. Add it to scrambled eggs or an omelette aux fine herbs. Parsley is a natural breath freshener.

Rosemary

Common name: rosemary

Botanical name: Rosemarinus officinalis

Origin: Mediterranean

Varieties

Albus; Collingwood Ingram; Tuscan Blue; Prostratus; Lockwood de Forest.

Description

Rosemary is a half-hardy, evergreen, perennial shrub with narrow, aromatic, grey-green leaves. It can grow six feet tall, and the flowers are small, light blue or white. It's a perennial, but in areas with very cold winters it's grown as an annual. Rosemary is one of the traditional strewing herbs; in the language of flowers its message is ''remember.'' In Shakespeare's play, Ophelia gives Hamlet a sprig of rosemary ''for remembrance.'' Keep up the old tradition of a herb of remembrance by tying a sprig of rosemary to a gift.

Where and when to grow

Rosemary can handle temperatures a bit below freezing and tolerates cold better in a sandy, ell-drained location. Lessthan-ldeal conditions improve its fragrance, but it's not really hardy north of Washington, D.C. Grow it in a cold-winter area if you're willing to mulch it for winter protection.

How to plant

Like most herbs, rosemary is most fragrant and full of flavor if it's grown in well-drained, sandy soil that's high in organic matter but not over-rich. Very fertile soil will produce beautiful plants but decrease the production of the aromatic oils on which the plant's fragrance depends. Don't fertilize the soil if you're planting rosemary, except if you're growing it as a perennial in a mild winter climate; in this case, work a low-nitrogen (5-10-10) fertilizer into the soil before planting at the rate of about a half pound to 100 square feet. To grow rosemary from seed, start the seeds indoors or in a cold frame four to six weeks before your average date of last frost. Two weeks after the average date of last frost, transplant them to a location in full sun with a foot or more between the plants and 18 to 24 inches between rows. You can also grow rosemary from

stem cuttings. Pot a rosemary plant from the garden in fall and bring it into the house for winter use. In the spring take stem cuttings to propagate your new crop.

Fertilizing and watering

Do not fertilize at midseason. If the weather is dry, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Don't let the roots dry out.

Pests

Rosemary has no serious pest problems. Like most herbs, it does well In the organic garden.

Diseases

Rosemary has no serious disease problems.

When and how to harvest

You can take some of the leaves, which look like short pine needles, and use them fresh any time you want them. Growth can be pruned back several times during a season.

Storing and preserving

Dry the leaves and store them in airtight containers.

Serving suggestions

Treat rosemary with respect; it can easily overpower more delicate herbs. Rosemary is traditionally used with lamb or pork; it's also excellent combined with a little lemon juice and chopped parsley and sprinkled on chicken before it's baked.